Military Hans Högman
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Uniforms - Nomenclature

The terms below are listed in alphabetical order by their English names. The Swedish corresponding names are listed within brackets.

Agraffe (Agraff)

Surgical staples or agreaffes are specialized staples used in surgery in place of sutures to close skin wounds. In the Swedish Armed Forces agraffes are used fasten and display rank insignias and other badges on military caps. In this respect agraffes are claps of metal or braids and trimmings in two pieces which can be hooked together.

Aiguillette (Ägiljett

)

An aiguillette, also spelled aguillette, aiglet or aglet, is a cord with metal tips or lace tags, or the decorative tip itself.  In modern usage, an "aiguillette" is an ornamental braided cord with decorative metal tips worn on uniforms or as part of other costumes such as academic dress,[1] where it will denote an honour. This usage of "aiguillette" derives from lacing used to fasten plate armor together. As such, a knot or loop arrangement was used which sometimes hung from the shoulder. Karlsborgs fästningsmuseum. Foto Hans Högman 2006.

Atilla (Attila)

The atilla is an elaborately braided Hungarian shell-jacket or short coat, decorated with lace and knots. Historically it was part of the uniform of the Hungarian cavalry known as hussars. The atilla was made in many styles and many colors including black, gray, blue, green, red and white. Some of these overlapped with the Turkish dolman. The Swedish hussars and artillery enacted the atilla in the 1850s. In the 1870s it was foremost the artillery still using atilla. 

Banderole (Banderoll)

A baderole was a hanging ornament attached on headgears, especially on shakos, usually braided cords.

Battle dress uniform (Fältuniform)

A battledress is a type of uniform used as combat uniforms, as opposed to dress uniforms or formal uniform worn at parades and functions. Also known as combat uniform and is the utility uniform worn in garrison and in combat zones.

Bigesch

A Bigesch was a long heavily braided greatcoat. The braiding was in the same color as the greatcoat. Also, the cuffs were braided. The bigesch was introduced in the Swedish cavalry in 1858 and worn by officers and non-commissioned officers. It then replaced the former surtout.

Bicorne

The bicorne or bicorn (two-cornered/horned or twihorn) is a historical form of hat widely adopted in the 1790s as an item of uniform by European and American military and naval officers. It is now most readily associated with Napoléon Bonaparte but in practice most generals and staff officers of the Napoleonic period wore bicornes, and it survived as a widely worn full-dress headdress until at least 1914.

Breastplate (Bröstharnesk)

A breastplate or chestplate is a device worn over the torso to protect it from injury. The Swedish horsemen wore breastplates (Swe: bröstharnesk) with a shammy linings (Swe: sämskinn) until the beginning of the 1700s.

Buff Coat/Jerkin (Kyller)

The European buff coat (the term deriving from the ox or buffalo hide from which it was commonly made and its yellowish color) was an item of leather clothing worn by cavalry and officers during the 17th century, it also saw limited use by some infantry. It was often worn under armor. It was derived from the simple leather jerkins worn by huntsmen and soldiers during the Tudor period, these in turn deriving from the arming doublet worn under full plate armor. Prior to 1700 the Swedish horsemen wore buff coats (Swe: Kyller) made of moose skin. The buff coat reached down to the knees. The reason the buff coat finally was abolished as an outer garment was the material. The buff coats was made of moose chamois leather and chamois has a tendency to attract water and thereafter takes a long time to dry. Instead of chamois buff coat a waistcoat of skin was introduced. This waistcoat was called “camisole” (Swe: kamisol) and had long sleeves. When the Great Northern War broke out in 1700 the entire Swedish cavalry was equipped with camisoles instead of buff coats

Burlap (Buldan)

Burlap (Hessian fabric) is a woven fabric usually made from skin of the jute plant or sisal fibers, to make rope, nets, and similar products. Gunny is similar in texture and construction -C-

Camisole (Kamisol)

Instead of chamois buff coat a waistcoat of skin was introduced. This waistcoat was called “camisole” (Swe: kamisol) and had long sleeves. When the Great Northern War broke out in 1700 the entire Swedish cavalry was equipped with camisoles instead of buff coats.

Cartridge box (Kartuschväska)

The cartridge box (pouch) was a box to carry cartridges. It was worn on the soldier's right hip, on a belt in front of the soldier's belly ("ventral cartridge box", "gargoussier"), or on a shoulder belt. The cartridge box was usually made of stiff leather or metal. The lid or flap was adorned with emblems.

Chamois

In color context, chamois is a color with shades of yellow; yellow, gray-yellow or red-yellow. 

Chest Stripes (Bröstrevärer)

Facing on the chest.

Chevron

A chevron (also spelled cheveron, especially in older documents) is a V-shaped mark, often inverted. The word is usually used in reference to a kind of fret in architecture, or to a badge or insignia used in military or police uniforms to indicate rank or length of service, or in heraldry and the designs of flags (see flag terminology).

Cloak (Slängkappa)

A cloak is a type of loose sleeveless garment that is worn over coats and serves the same purpose as an overcoat. Cloaks are generally fasten at the neck or over the shoulder. A cape or rather a cloak was also belonged to the Carolean uniform. However, the cloak wasn’t fully introduced in the infantry until the 1690s. The cloak was like the coat blue and was cut in a circular shape, sleeveless and equipped with a collar. They were usually made of wool with a yellow serge lining. The cloak was kept in place by two buckles in front. The cloak was 7m (21 ft.) in circumference at the bottom.

Coat/tunic/blouse (Vapenrock)

A military tunic is a type of medium length coat or jacket, the lower hem of which reaches down to the thighs all the way round. It is named after the tunic, a garment of similar length worn in Ancient Rome. In the second half of the seventeenth and into the eighteenth century, European soldiers wore a coat of a similar style to the civilian justacorps, which had wide skirts and was decorated with lace at the front and had broad cuffs. As the eighteenth century progressed, coats became tighter and broad lapels to expose the facing color were introduced, initially in the Prussian Army. The skirts of the coat were turned back to form tails; this was initially a mark of the dragoon cavalry, but was soon adopted by the infantry too. By the start of the nineteenth century, this had evolved into a jacket that was cut to waist level at the front and had a short tail behind; in the British Army, this was called a "coatee". By the end of the 1830s, there was a feeling that uniforms didn't offer soldiers sufficient protection from the elements or freedom of movement. While Russia experimented again with the tunic, Prussia adopted them for their whole army in 1842. The tunic became almost universal military wear; at the start of the twentieth century, when the need for some kind of concealment became apparent, armies changed to drab colored uniforms.

Cockade (Kokard)

A cockade is a knot of ribbons, or other circular- or oval-shaped symbol of distinctive colors which is usually worn on a hat. The cockade was applied on military and other hats and was cockscomb styled adornment.

Custodian helmet (Kask)

The custodian helmet was based on the spiked pickelhaube worn by the Prussian Army.

Czapka (Tschapka)

Czapka (plural: czapki) was a headgear, consisting of a high, four-pointed cap with regimental insignia on the front foremost used by lancers. This headdress developed initially as a square-topped variant of a shako. The Swedish czapka was made of light blue broadcloth and black leather and equipped with a white hanging plume of haircloth. The officers’ cap was equipped with embroideries, silver braids and pompon of gold. It was a stiff cap with a square flared crown. The Swedish Mounted Life Guards wore czapka between 1852 and 1879.

Dolman (Dolma)

Dolman was a  short uniform jacket worn by hussars. The close fitting, short-cut coat was heavily braided. It was usually worn under a pelisse, a similar coat but with fur trimming, usually worn slung over the left shoulder with the sleeves hanging loose. The dolman was extensively adorned with braiding (often gold or silver for officers) and several rows of buttons. The colorful military uniforms of hussars were inspired by the prevailing Hungarian fashions of the day.

Dress Uniform (Livmundering)

The “livmundering” was the service dress for use in the field, i.e. battledress, dress uniform. However, in the 17th and 18th century the service dress was also the dress uniform (then equipped with special uniform details such as plumes etc).

Epaulet (Epålett)

Epaulet is a type of ornamental shoulder piece or decoration used as insignia of rank by armed forces and other organizations. In several European armies, epaulets are also worn by all ranks of elite or ceremonial units when on parade. Epaulets are fastened to the shoulder by a shoulder strap, a small strap parallel to the shoulder seam, and the button near the collar, or by laces on the underside of the epaulet passing through holes in the shoulder of the coat. The placement of the epaulet, its color and the length and diameter of its bullion fringe are used to signify the wearer's rank. Epaulets first appeared on Swedish uniforms in the second half of the 18th century. The epaulet was officially incorporated into Swedish uniform regulations in 1792, although foreign recruited regiments had had them earlier. Senior officers were to wear golden crowns to distinguish their rank from lower ranking officers who wore golden stars. Epaulets were discontinued on the field uniform in the mid-19th century, switching to rank insignia on the collar of the uniform jacket. Epaulets were discontinued when they were removed from the general issue dress uniform in the 1930s. They are, however, still worn by the Royal Lifeguards and by military bands when in ceremonial full dress. Karlsborg Fortress Museum. Photo Hans Högman 2006.

Facing (Rockuppslag)

In sewing and tailoring, facing is a small piece of fabric, separate or a part of the fabric itself, used to finish the fabric edges. Facing makes a garment look professionally finished with the seams well hidden inside the folds of the facing. Facing is mostly used to finish the edges in necklines, armholes, hems and openings. They are also used widely in all other sewing like quilts and home decor items like curtain hems. There are basically three types of facing. 1. Shaped facing 2. Extended facing 3. Bias facing. Shaped facings are cut to match the outside shape of the piece to provide a neat finish, and are often cut from the same pattern pieces. Shaped facings are typically made of the same fabric as the garment, but may also be made of lighter-weight fabric or in a contrasting color as a design element. Extended facings are extensions of the garment fabric, folded back and usually stabilized. Bias facings are strips of lightweight fabric cut on the true bias (US) or cross-grain (UK), and shaped rather than cut to match the edge to which they are applied

Facing Colors

During the 19th century several regiments and corps of the Swedish Army had an allotted facing color. A facing color is a common tailoring technique for European military uniforms where the visible inside lining of a standard military jacket, coat or tunic is of a different color to that of the garment itself. The jacket lining evolved to be of different colored material, then of specific hues. Accordingly when the material was turned back on itself: the cuffs, lapels and tails of the jacket exposed the contrasting colors of the lining or facings, enabling ready visual distinction of different units: regiments, divisions or battalions each with their own specific and prominent colors.

Fascine knife (Faskinkniv)

The fascine knife was a side arm / tool issued to 17th to 19th century light infantry and artillery. It served both as a personal weapon and as a tool for cutting fascines (bundles of sticks used to strengthen the sides of trenches or earth ramparts protecting the batteries).

Fatigue Uniform (Lägermundering)

The fatigue uniform was a simple work uniform used when it wasn’t suitable to wear the regular uniform such as duties that would expose them to field conditions and/or greasy and grimy jobs.

Forage Cap (Lägermössa)

Forage cap is the designation given to various types of military undress, fatigue or working headgear. These varied widely in form, according to country or period. The colored peaked cap worn by the modern British Army for parade and other dress occasions is known as a forage cap. In the 18th century, forage caps were small cloth caps worn by British cavalrymen when undertaking work duties such as foraging for food for their horses. The term was later applied to undress caps worn by men of all branches and regiments as a substitute for the full dress headdress.

Frock Coat (Lång kappa)

A frock coat is a man's coat characterized by a knee-length skirt (often cut just above the knee) all around the base. The frock coat is a fitted, long-sleeved coat with a center vent at the back and with a reverse collar and lapels, where the outer edge of the lapel is cut from a separate piece of cloth from the main body, and also a high degree of waist suppression, where the coat's diameter round the waist is much less than round the chest. This is achieved by a high horizontal waist seam with side bodies, which are extra panels of fabric above the waist used to pull in the naturally cylindrical drape. Frock coats emerged during the Napoleonic Wars, where they were worn by officers in the Austrian and various German armies during campaign. They efficiently kept the wearer warm as well as protected his uniform. Privates and non-commissioned officers would wear greatcoats on campaign.

Front plate on caps (Mössplåt)

A metal or wollen plate/badge fixed in-front of hats and caps as an adornment.

Full dress uniform (Trupparaddräkt)

Full dress uniform is the most formal military uniform reserved for parade or other ceremonial or formal occasions.

Gaiter (Stiblett/Damask)

Gaiters are garments worn over the shoe and lower pants leg, and used primarily as personal protective equipment; similar garments used primarily for display are spats. The Swedish army was using knee-high gaiters in the end of the 1700s. The gaiters were buttoned up on the outer side of the gaiters.

Gauntlet (Kraghandske)

A gauntlet is a name for several different styles of glove, particularly those with an extended cuff covering part of the forearm. Gauntlets exist in many forms, ranging from flexible fabric and leather gloves, to mail and fully articulated plate armor.

Gorget (Ringkrage)

Gorgets were were worn by officers both as a badge of rank and an indication that they were on duty. As early as 1688, regulations provided for the wearing of gorgets by Swedish army officers. For those of captain's rank the gorget was gilt with the king's monogram under a crown in blue enamel, while more junior officers wore silver-plated gorgets with the initials in gold. The gorget was discontinued as a rank insignia for Swedish officers in the Swedish Armed Forces as of 1792, when epaulettes were introduced. However, use of the gorget was revived in 1799, when the Officer of the day was given the privilege of wearing a gorget which featured the Swedish lesser coat of arms. It has since been a part of the officer's uniform (when he or she functions as "Officer of the day"), a custom which continues to this day. The officer of the day (OOD) is a detail rotated each day among the unit/post's officers. The OOD oversees security, guard, and law enforcement considerations as well as conducts inspections of dining facilities. The image shows a Swedish captain’s gorget from the middle of the 1700s. Digital Museum. -H-

Hair pouch (Hårpung)

The hårpung (hair pouch) was an accessory to the uniform and was introduced in 1681. The hair cloth was a small black pouch made of linen or cotton which was used to cover the soldiers’ long hair at the back of their heads or down the back of the soldiers. The soldiers were to comb their hair to their back and cover it in these bags. The Swedish hårpung literately means hair pouch. Image; soldier wearing a hair pouch.

Haircloth (Tagel)

Haircloth is a stiff, unsupple fabric typically made from horsehair and/or from the wooly hair of a camel. Although horsehair generally refers to the hair of a horse's mane or tail, haircloth itself is sometimes called horsehair. Horse or camel hair woven into haircloth may be fashioned into clothing or upholstery.

Hosor

Long stockings.

Jackboots (Kragstövlar)

A jackboot is a military boot such as the cavalry jackboot or the hobnailed jackboot. The hobnailed jackboot has a different design and function than the first type. It is a combat boot that is designed for marching. It rises to mid-calf or higher with no laces and usually has a leather sole with hobnails. The term originally denoted tall winged leather cavalry boots, which had been "jacked", or reinforced against sword blows by use of mail (armor) sewn into the lining of the leather. The wings on these high boots particularly protected a rider's knee-joint from a sword blow. The Swedish cavalry used high grain-leather jackboots. The boots has stiff bootlegs (Swe: stövelskaft).

Kapott

Greatcoat with sleeves introduced in the Swedish Army 1806-1807.

Kardong

Brass or leather straps used as adornment on military hats.

Uniforms of the Swedish Army - Nomenclature

Terms beginning with:

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Karpus

In the early period of the Carolean Army (1670-1706) , the soldiers wore a headgear known as karpus. A karpus was a circular, padded or fur-lined hat with ear-muffs that could be let down to cover forehead, ears and the nape of the neck. The Karpus was mainly used by the soldiers of rank and file. Officers wore hats. The hat was soft, three- cornered, had a low crown and turned up brim.

“Knapphål” - Flaps on collar and cuffs

“Knapphål” is a Swedish military term for the ribbons, stripes and braids fixed around buttons and buttonholes on facings and above all on cuffs. “Knapphål” literally means “buttonhole”.

Kollett

The kollett was a type of jacket shorter than the coat, had a standing collar but no tails. The kollett was used during summers and drill exercises. The corresponding garment in English is probably coatee. A coatee was a type of short tight fitting uniform coat or jacket.

Kepi (Käppi)

The kepi is a cap with a flat circular top and a peak, or visor.

Kurtka

Lancers typically wore a double-breasted jacket (kurtka) with a colored panel (plastron) at the front, a colored sash, and a square- topped Polish cap (czapka). The kurtka was a type of close fitting double breasted jacket, cut to the waist and often worn with a plastron, a contrasting-coloured panel of cloth covering the chest worn by lancers. The Swedish kurtka was double-breasted with plastron and piping and equipped with epaulettes. -L-

Lampasses (Revärer)

Lampasse(s) or trouser stripes are in a large number of national armed forces trouser stripes. In German speaking countries as General Staff–qualified officers, their uniform featured these distinctive double-wide lampasses. Because of the similar spelling, it should not be mixed up with the Lampas (French: Lampas).) which is of different meaning.

Leggings (Charivader)

A kind of long stocking which reached far up onto the thighs onto of the trousers. Usage from the 18th century refers to men's wear, usually made of cloth or leather that is wrapped around the leg down to the ankle. Leggings refer to several types of leg coverings.

Long-coat (Långrock)

The Swedish long-coat was of type Justaucorps. The long-coat with its long tails was a bit uncomfortable to wear. The tails reached down to the knees and were a hindrance in combat. The tails were also troublesome for foot soldiers during march and for horsemen while riding. Therefor it was common to turn up the tails in front as well as at the back at each side and onto a buckle. The coat lining thereby became visible. At other occasions the tails were let down. The long-coat reached down to the knees. The long-coat was generally introduced in Sweden in the 1680s even if they also can be found in the 1670s. The long-coat tails were not turned up in the artillery as they normally were in the infantry and cavalry.

Mantel

Sleeveless coat, cloak.

Medium Blue (Mellanblå)

A shade of blue typical for the Carolean uniforms of the 1700s.

Other Ranks

The term used to refer to all ranks below officers is "other ranks" (abbreviated "ORs"). It includes warrant officers, non-commissioned officers ("NCOs") and ordinary soldiers with the rank of private or regimental equivalent. Officers may, in speaking, distinguish themselves from those "in the ranks". -P-

Peaked Cap (Skärmmössa)

A peaked cap/visor cap is a form of headgear worn by the armed forces of many nations, as well as many uniformed civilian organizations such as law enforcement agencies and fire departments. It derives its name from its short visor (American English, known as a peak in British English), which was historically made of polished leather but increasingly is made of a synthetic substitute.

Pigtail (Stångpiska)

In the context of hairstyles, the usage of the term pigtail (or twintail or twin tail) shows considerable variation. The term may refer to a single braid, but when used in the plural it often refers to twin bunches of hair on opposite sides of the head. From the later 17th century through the 19th century, the term came to be applied to any braided ("plaited", in British parlance) hairstyle. The British army also adopted a single pigtail or "queue" as its standard dress for long hair. The Swedish Army soldiers used pigtail in the 1700s with black braids.

Pikeman (Pikenerare)

A pike is a pole weapon, a very long thrusting spear formerly used extensively by infantry. Unlike many similar weapons, the pike is not intended to be thrown.

Piping (Passpoal)

In sewing, piping is a type of trim or embellishment consisting of a strip of folded fabric so as to form a "pipe" inserted into a seam to define the edges or style lines of a garment or other textile object. Usually the fabric strip is cut on the bias. It may be made from either self-fabric (the same fabric as the object to be ornamented) or contrasting fabric, or of leather.

Plastron (Bröstrevärer)

A plastron is a contrasting-colored panel of cloth covering the chest. See image to the right.

Plume (Plym)

A plume is a special type of bird feather, possessed by egrets, ostriches, birds of paradise, quetzals, pheasants and peacocks. They often have a decorative or ornamental purpose, commonly used among marching bands and the military, worn on the hat or helmet of the wearer. When used on military headdresses, the clipped feather plume is referred to as the hackle.

Pompon (Pompong)

A pom-pom – also spelled pom-pon, pompom or pompon – is a decorative ball or tuft. In military context the term refers to a small, tighter ball or tuft attached to the top of a hat. Pom-poms may come in many colors, sizes, and varieties and are made from a wide array of materials, including wool, cotton, thread and occasionally feathers. In reference to military uniforms, the small pom-pom on the crown of military hats is called a "toorie" in Scotland.

Rank Insignias (Gradbeteckningar)

Rank insignias are worn on military uniforms to denote the wearers rank.

Trouser stripes / Lampasses (Revärer)

Lampasse(s) are in a large number of national armed forces trouser stripes. Lampasses are worn even today in a large number of national armed forces on dress uniform, full dress uniform, or duty uniform of general officers. The gold-coloured lampasses of the US-Cavalry is also well known. Lampasses were fixed along the seam of the outer side of trousers.

Tunic (Vapenrock)

A military tunic is a type of medium length coat or jacket, the lower hem of which reaches down to the thighs all the way round. It is named after the tunic, a garment of similar length worn in Ancient Rome. -S-

Service Dress Uniform (Daglig dräkt)

Service dress uniform is a style of military uniform that is the equivalent of a business suit, i.e. dress clothes - not the very most formal attire yet not casual attire either, but rather pertaining to the traditional Western dress code of informal attire.

Shako (Tschakå)

A shako is a tall, cylindrical military cap, usually with a visor, and sometimes tapered at the top. It is usually adorned with some kind of ornamental plate or badge on the front, metallic or otherwise, and often has a feather, plume (see hackle), or pompom attached at the top. The shako introduced into the Swedish infantry in 1815 was the Russian shako - the kiwa; The kiwa (also kiver) was a style of shako introduced into the Imperial Russian Army in 1812; its distinguishing feature was the dished or concave top. A new shako was enacted by the Swedish Army in 1838. This shako was taller and straight upright and didn’t weight as much as the old one.

Shoes (Skor)

The early infantry footwear was shoes, usually with a decorative buckle. The shoes were made of grain-leather (smorläder) and each shoe could be worn on either foot (no differences between left and right shoe). The shoes were  black and broken right off in front, i.e. square toecaps.

Shoulder belt (Koppel)

In military uniforms, a shoulder belt is a wide belt worn usually over the shoulder and across the body. A shoulder belt was worn in various configurations, depending on army and rank. For example, an officer may have only worn one shoulder belt as appropriate for only having a pistol.

Shoulder mark (Axelträns)

A shoulder mark, also called an epaulette, shoulder board, rank slide, or slip-on , is a flat cloth sleeve worn on the shoulder strap of a uniform. It may bear rank or other insignia.

Shoulder Straps (Axelklaff)

Many military uniform shirts, jackets, tunics, or greatcoats feature shoulder straps. They were originally designed to keep back packs, ammunition pouches or bayonets from slipping off the shoulder. They often display badges of rank, shoulder marks, regimental insignia or epaulets. The Carolean uniforms had shoulder straps affixed on the shoulders. Musketeers had two straps, one on each shoulder; one to keep the bandoleer to the cartridge pouch in place, the other shoulder strap was to keep the musket in place on the shoulder. The pikemen had only one shoulder strap on the right shoulder to keep the sword belt in place.

Side cap (Båtmössa)

A side cap is a foldable military cap with straight sides and a creased or hollow crown sloping to the back where it is parted. It is known as a garrison cap or flight cap in the United States, wedge cap in Canada) or field service cap in the United Kingdom.

Standing Collar (Ståndkrage)

Standing or stand-up, fitting up around the neck and not lying on the shoulders. Collars may also be stiffened, traditionally with starch; A stiff standing collar for men's formal wear, differentiated from other tall styles by the lack of tabs at the front.

Stockings (Knästrumpor)

The stockings (knee socks) reached above the knees and usually made of knitted of wool. They were kept in place by straps and brass clasps. It was common to wear two pair of stockings on top of each other. The stockings were normally yellow but there were variations: For example the Närke-Värmlands and Jönköping regiments wore red stockings and the Västerbotten regiment wore white stockings. Mid-1690s a special type of protective stocking was introduced to be worn on top of the ordinary stockings. These protective stockings was made of broadcloth or frieze (vadmal) for winter usage and linen for summer usage. These outer stockings were predecessor to the gaithers (spats). At the end of the 1690s a new regulation stated that the stockings was to be in the same color as respective regiment’s color of the lining.

Surtout (Syrtut)

A surtout is a long greatcoat with lapels and equipped with one or two rows of buttons worn over the military uniforms used in the 1700s and 1800s. -T-

“Tagelliggare”

A tagelliggare was a large crest or comb (lying plume) made of horsehair (haircloth) used as adornments on hats and helmets.

Tailcoat (Frack)

A tailcoat is a coat with the front of the skirt cut away, so as to leave only the rear section of the skirt, known as the tails. The historical reason coats were cut this way was to make it easier for the wearer to ride a horse, but over the years tailcoats of varying types have evolved into forms of formal dress for both day and evening wear.

Tails (Skört)

A tailcoat is a coat with the front of the skirt cut away, so as to leave only the rear section of the skirt, known as the tails. The historical reason coats were cut this way was to make it easier for the wearer to ride a horse, but over the years tailcoats of varying types have evolved into forms of formal dress for both day and evening wear.

Tolpak

A high peaked cap made of haircloth equipped with a hanging pouch of linen known as a flame and a banderole and high plume. This cap was usually worn by the hussars. It was initially introduced in Sweden mid-1700s.

Three-cornered hat, tricorne

The early Carolean hat had initially flat brims but later turned up, however not fastened. At the end of the 1600s the hat was pinned up on either side of the head and at the back, producing a triangular shape. Hats of this general style were referred to as "cocked hats". This three-cornered hat is also known as tricorne. There was a button on the left brim. The NCOs button were silver-plated while the officers button were gold-plated. The hat was typically worn with one point facing forward, though it was not at all unusual for soldiers, who would often rest a rifle or musket on their left shoulder, to wear the tricorne pointed above their left eyebrow to allow better clearance.

Trimming (Bräm)

Trim or trimming in clothing is applied ornament, such as gimp, passementerie, ribbon, ruffles, or, as a verb, to apply such ornament.

Trousers/Breeches (Byxor/knäbyxor)

Until the end of the 1700s, beginning of the 1800s trousers were so-called breeches, i.e. they reached down to the knees. The breeches were tight and made of skin, sometimes of broadcloth and normally yellow.

Träns

Braids or cords used as adornments on uniforms.

Undress Uniform/Dress Cloths (Släpmundering)

Dress clothes (undress) are clothing that is less formal than the service dress (field uniform). In other words an informal working dress/uniform. -W/V-

Wadmal / Frieze (Vadmal)

Wadmal is a coarse, dense, usually undyed wool fabric woven in Iceland, Norway, Sweden, Greenland, and the Orkney, Faroe and Shetland Islands from the Middle Ages into the 18th century.  In remote regions, wadmal remained the primary fabric for working people's clothing into the 18th century.

Worsted (Redgarn/kamgarn)

Worsted is a high-quality type of wool yarn, the fabric made from this yarn, and a yarn weight category. The name derives from Worstead, a village in the English county of Norfolk.

Vest (Väst)

The vest (waistcoat) reached down to the knees, was made of skin and generally yellow. There were vests also made of broadcloth even if they weren’t common.
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Uniforms - Nomenclature

The terms below are listed in alphabetical order by their English names. The Swedish corresponding names are listed within brackets.

Agraffe (Agraff)

Surgical staples or agreaffes are specialized staples used in surgery in place of sutures to close skin wounds. In the Swedish Armed Forces agraffes are used fasten and display rank insignias and other badges on military caps. In this respect agraffes are claps of metal or braids and trimmings in two pieces which can be hooked together.

Aiguillette (Ägiljett

)

An aiguillette, also spelled aguillette, aiglet or aglet, is a cord with metal tips or lace tags, or the decorative tip itself.  In modern usage, an "aiguillette" is an ornamental braided cord with decorative metal tips worn on uniforms or as part of other costumes such as academic dress,[1] where it will denote an honour. This usage of "aiguillette" derives from lacing used to fasten plate armor together. As such, a knot or loop arrangement was used which sometimes hung from the shoulder. Karlsborgs fästningsmuseum. Foto Hans Högman 2006.

Atilla (Attila)

The atilla is an elaborately braided Hungarian shell-jacket or short coat, decorated with lace and knots. Historically it was part of the uniform of the Hungarian cavalry known as hussars. The atilla was made in many styles and many colors including black, gray, blue, green, red and white. Some of these overlapped with the Turkish dolman. The Swedish hussars and artillery enacted the atilla in the 1850s. In the 1870s it was foremost the artillery still using atilla. 

Banderole (Banderoll)

A baderole was a hanging ornament attached on headgears, especially on shakos, usually braided cords.

Battle dress uniform (Fältuniform)

A battledress is a type of uniform used as combat uniforms, as opposed to dress uniforms or formal uniform worn at parades and functions. Also known as combat uniform and is the utility uniform worn in garrison and in combat zones.

Bigesch

A Bigesch was a long heavily braided greatcoat. The braiding was in the same color as the greatcoat. Also, the cuffs were braided. The bigesch was introduced in the Swedish cavalry in 1858 and worn by officers and non- commissioned officers. It then replaced the former surtout.

Bicorne

The bicorne or bicorn (two-cornered/horned or twihorn) is a historical form of hat widely adopted in the 1790s as an item of uniform by European and American military and naval officers. It is now most readily associated with Napoléon Bonaparte but in practice most generals and staff officers of the Napoleonic period wore bicornes, and it survived as a widely worn full-dress headdress until at least 1914.

Breastplate (Bröstharnesk)

A breastplate or chestplate is a device worn over the torso to protect it from injury. The Swedish horsemen wore breastplates (Swe: bröstharnesk) with a shammy linings (Swe: sämskinn) until the beginning of the 1700s.

Buff Coat/Jerkin (Kyller)

The European buff coat (the term deriving from the ox or buffalo hide from which it was commonly made and its yellowish color) was an item of leather clothing worn by cavalry and officers during the 17th century, it also saw limited use by some infantry. It was often worn under armor. It was derived from the simple leather jerkins worn by huntsmen and soldiers during the Tudor period, these in turn deriving from the arming doublet worn under full plate armor. Prior to 1700 the Swedish horsemen wore buff coats (Swe: Kyller) made of moose skin. The buff coat reached down to the knees. The reason the buff coat finally was abolished as an outer garment was the material. The buff coats was made of moose chamois leather and chamois has a tendency to attract water and thereafter takes a long time to dry. Instead of chamois buff coat a waistcoat of skin was introduced. This waistcoat was called “camisole” (Swe: kamisol) and had long sleeves. When the Great Northern War broke out in 1700 the entire Swedish cavalry was equipped with camisoles instead of buff coats

Burlap (Buldan)

Burlap (Hessian fabric) is a woven fabric usually made from skin of the jute plant or sisal fibers, to make rope, nets, and similar products. Gunny is similar in texture and construction -C-

Camisole (Kamisol)

Instead of chamois buff coat a waistcoat of skin was introduced. This waistcoat was called “camisole” (Swe: kamisol) and had long sleeves. When the Great Northern War broke out in 1700 the entire Swedish cavalry was equipped with camisoles instead of buff coats.

Cartridge box (Kartuschväska)

The cartridge box (pouch) was a box to carry cartridges. It was worn on the soldier's right hip, on a belt in front of the soldier's belly ("ventral cartridge box", "gargoussier"), or on a shoulder belt. The cartridge box was usually made of stiff leather or metal. The lid or flap was adorned with emblems.

Chamois

In color context, chamois is a color with shades of yellow; yellow, gray-yellow or red-yellow. 

Chest Stripes (Bröstrevärer)

Facing on the chest.

Chevron

A chevron (also spelled cheveron, especially in older documents) is a V-shaped mark, often inverted. The word is usually used in reference to a kind of fret in architecture, or to a badge or insignia used in military or police uniforms to indicate rank or length of service, or in heraldry and the designs of flags (see flag terminology).

Cloak (Slängkappa)

A cloak is a type of loose sleeveless garment that is worn over coats and serves the same purpose as an overcoat. Cloaks are generally fasten at the neck or over the shoulder. A cape or rather a cloak was also belonged to the Carolean uniform. However, the cloak wasn’t fully introduced in the infantry until the 1690s. The cloak was like the coat blue and was cut in a circular shape, sleeveless and equipped with a collar. They were usually made of wool with a yellow serge lining. The cloak was kept in place by two buckles in front. The cloak was 7m (21 ft.) in circumference at the bottom.

Coat/tunic/blouse (Vapenrock)

A military tunic is a type of medium length coat or jacket, the lower hem of which reaches down to the thighs all the way round. It is named after the tunic, a garment of similar length worn in Ancient Rome. In the second half of the seventeenth and into the eighteenth century, European soldiers wore a coat of a similar style to the civilian justacorps, which had wide skirts and was decorated with lace at the front and had broad cuffs. As the eighteenth century progressed, coats became tighter and broad lapels to expose the facing color were introduced, initially in the Prussian Army. The skirts of the coat were turned back to form tails; this was initially a mark of the dragoon cavalry, but was soon adopted by the infantry too. By the start of the nineteenth century, this had evolved into a jacket that was cut to waist level at the front and had a short tail behind; in the British Army, this was called a "coatee". By the end of the 1830s, there was a feeling that uniforms didn't offer soldiers sufficient protection from the elements or freedom of movement. While Russia experimented again with the tunic, Prussia adopted them for their whole army in 1842. The tunic became almost universal military wear; at the start of the twentieth century, when the need for some kind of concealment became apparent, armies changed to drab colored uniforms.

Cockade (Kokard)

A cockade is a knot of ribbons, or other circular- or oval-shaped symbol of distinctive colors which is usually worn on a hat. The cockade was applied on military and other hats and was cockscomb styled adornment.

Custodian helmet (Kask)

The custodian helmet was based on the spiked pickelhaube worn by the Prussian Army.

Czapka (Tschapka)

Czapka (plural: czapki) was a headgear, consisting of a high, four-pointed cap with regimental insignia on the front foremost used by lancers. This headdress developed initially as a square-topped variant of a shako. The Swedish czapka was made of light blue broadcloth and black leather and equipped with a white hanging plume of haircloth. The officers’ cap was equipped with embroideries, silver braids and pompon of gold. It was a stiff cap with a square flared crown. The Swedish Mounted Life Guards wore czapka between 1852 and 1879.

Dolman (Dolma)

Dolman was a  short uniform jacket worn by hussars. The close fitting, short-cut coat was heavily braided. It was usually worn under a pelisse, a similar coat but with fur trimming, usually worn slung over the left shoulder with the sleeves hanging loose. The dolman was extensively adorned with braiding (often gold or silver for officers) and several rows of buttons. The colorful military uniforms of hussars were inspired by the prevailing Hungarian fashions of the day.

Dress Uniform (Livmundering)

The “livmundering” was the service dress for use in the field, i.e. battledress, dress uniform. However, in the 17th and 18th century the service dress was also the dress uniform (then equipped with special uniform details such as plumes etc).

Epaulet (Epålett)

Epaulet is a type of ornamental shoulder piece or decoration used as insignia of rank by armed forces and other organizations. In several European armies, epaulets are also worn by all ranks of elite or ceremonial units when on parade. Epaulets are fastened to the shoulder by a shoulder strap, a small strap parallel to the shoulder seam, and the button near the collar, or by laces on the underside of the epaulet passing through holes in the shoulder of the coat. The placement of the epaulet, its color and the length and diameter of its bullion fringe are used to signify the wearer's rank. Epaulets first appeared on Swedish uniforms in the second half of the 18th century. The epaulet was officially incorporated into Swedish uniform regulations in 1792, although foreign recruited regiments had had them earlier. Senior officers were to wear golden crowns to distinguish their rank from lower ranking officers who wore golden stars. Epaulets were discontinued on the field uniform in the mid-19th century, switching to rank insignia on the collar of the uniform jacket. Epaulets were discontinued when they were removed from the general issue dress uniform in the 1930s. They are, however, still worn by the Royal Lifeguards and by military bands when in ceremonial full dress. Karlsborg Fortress Museum. Photo Hans Högman 2006.

Facing (Rockuppslag)

In sewing and tailoring, facing is a small piece of fabric, separate or a part of the fabric itself, used to finish the fabric edges. Facing makes a garment look professionally finished with the seams well hidden inside the folds of the facing. Facing is mostly used to finish the edges in necklines, armholes, hems and openings. They are also used widely in all other sewing like quilts and home decor items like curtain hems. There are basically three types of facing. 1. Shaped facing 2. Extended facing 3. Bias facing. Shaped facings are cut to match the outside shape of the piece to provide a neat finish, and are often cut from the same pattern pieces. Shaped facings are typically made of the same fabric as the garment, but may also be made of lighter-weight fabric or in a contrasting color as a design element. Extended facings are extensions of the garment fabric, folded back and usually stabilized. Bias facings are strips of lightweight fabric cut on the true bias (US) or cross-grain (UK), and shaped rather than cut to match the edge to which they are applied

Facing Colors

During the 19th century several regiments and corps of the Swedish Army had an allotted facing color. A facing color is a common tailoring technique for European military uniforms where the visible inside lining of a standard military jacket, coat or tunic is of a different color to that of the garment itself. The jacket lining evolved to be of different colored material, then of specific hues. Accordingly when the material was turned back on itself: the cuffs, lapels and tails of the jacket exposed the contrasting colors of the lining or facings, enabling ready visual distinction of different units: regiments, divisions or battalions each with their own specific and prominent colors.

Fascine knife (Faskinkniv)

The fascine knife was a side arm / tool issued to 17th to 19th century light infantry and artillery. It served both as a personal weapon and as a tool for cutting fascines (bundles of sticks used to strengthen the sides of trenches or earth ramparts protecting the batteries).

Fatigue Uniform (Lägermundering)

The fatigue uniform was a simple work uniform used when it wasn’t suitable to wear the regular uniform such as duties that would expose them to field conditions and/or greasy and grimy jobs.

Forage Cap (Lägermössa)

Forage cap is the designation given to various types of military undress, fatigue or working headgear. These varied widely in form, according to country or period. The colored peaked cap worn by the modern British Army for parade and other dress occasions is known as a forage cap. In the 18th century, forage caps were small cloth caps worn by British cavalrymen when undertaking work duties such as foraging for food for their horses. The term was later applied to undress caps worn by men of all branches and regiments as a substitute for the full dress headdress.

Frock Coat (Lång kappa)

A frock coat is a man's coat characterized by a knee- length skirt (often cut just above the knee) all around the base. The frock coat is a fitted, long- sleeved coat with a center vent at the back and with a reverse collar and lapels, where the outer edge of the lapel is cut from a separate piece of cloth from the main body, and also a high degree of waist suppression, where the coat's diameter round the waist is much less than round the chest. This is achieved by a high horizontal waist seam with side bodies, which are extra panels of fabric above the waist used to pull in the naturally cylindrical drape. Frock coats emerged during the Napoleonic Wars, where they were worn by officers in the Austrian and various German armies during campaign. They efficiently kept the wearer warm as well as protected his uniform. Privates and non- commissioned officers would wear greatcoats on campaign.

Front plate on caps (Mössplåt)

A metal or wollen plate/badge fixed in-front of hats and caps as an adornment.

Full dress uniform (Trupparaddräkt)

Full dress uniform is the most formal military uniform reserved for parade or other ceremonial or formal occasions.

Gaiter (Stiblett/Damask)

Gaiters are garments worn over the shoe and lower pants leg, and used primarily as personal protective equipment; similar garments used primarily for display are spats. The Swedish army was using knee-high gaiters in the end of the 1700s. The gaiters were buttoned up on the outer side of the gaiters.

Gauntlet (Kraghandske)

A gauntlet is a name for several different styles of glove, particularly those with an extended cuff covering part of the forearm. Gauntlets exist in many forms, ranging from flexible fabric and leather gloves, to mail and fully articulated plate armor.

Gorget (Ringkrage)

Gorgets were were worn by officers both as a badge of rank and an indication that they were on duty. As early as 1688, regulations provided for the wearing of gorgets by Swedish army officers. For those of captain's rank the gorget was gilt with the king's monogram under a crown in blue enamel, while more junior officers wore silver-plated gorgets with the initials in gold. The gorget was discontinued as a rank insignia for Swedish officers in the Swedish Armed Forces as of 1792, when epaulettes were introduced. However, use of the gorget was revived in 1799, when the Officer of the day was given the privilege of wearing a gorget which featured the Swedish lesser coat of arms. It has since been a part of the officer's uniform (when he or she functions as "Officer of the day"), a custom which continues to this day. The officer of the day (OOD) is a detail rotated each day among the unit/post's officers. The OOD oversees security, guard, and law enforcement considerations as well as conducts inspections of dining facilities. The image shows a Swedish captain’s gorget from the middle of the 1700s. Digital Museum. -H-

Hair pouch (Hårpung)

The hårpung (hair pouch) was an accessory to the uniform and was introduced in 1681. The hair cloth was a small black pouch made of linen or cotton which was used to cover the soldiers’ long hair at the back of their heads or down the back of the soldiers. The soldiers were to comb their hair to their back and cover it in these bags. The Swedish hårpung literately means hair pouch. Image; soldier wearing a hair pouch.

Haircloth (Tagel)

Haircloth is a stiff, unsupple fabric typically made from horsehair and/or from the wooly hair of a camel. Although horsehair generally refers to the hair of a horse's mane or tail, haircloth itself is sometimes called horsehair. Horse or camel hair woven into haircloth may be fashioned into clothing or upholstery.

Hosor

Long stockings.

Jackboots (Kragstövlar)

A jackboot is a military boot such as the cavalry jackboot or the hobnailed jackboot. The hobnailed jackboot has a different design and function than the first type. It is a combat boot that is designed for marching. It rises to mid-calf or higher with no laces and usually has a leather sole with hobnails. The term originally denoted tall winged leather cavalry boots, which had been "jacked", or reinforced against sword blows by use of mail (armor) sewn into the lining of the leather. The wings on these high boots particularly protected a rider's knee-joint from a sword blow. The Swedish cavalry used high grain-leather jackboots. The boots has stiff bootlegs (Swe: stövelskaft).

Kapott

Greatcoat with sleeves introduced in the Swedish Army 1806-1807.

Kardong

Brass or leather straps used as adornment on military hats.

Uniforms of the Swedish

Army - Nomenclature

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Karpus

In the early period of the Carolean Army (1670-1706) , the soldiers wore a headgear known as karpus. A karpus was a circular, padded or fur-lined hat with ear-muffs that could be let down to cover forehead, ears and the nape of the neck. The Karpus was mainly used by the soldiers of rank and file. Officers wore hats. The hat was soft, three- cornered, had a low crown and turned up brim.

“Knapphål” - Flaps on collar and cuffs

“Knapphål” is a Swedish military term for the ribbons, stripes and braids fixed around buttons and buttonholes on facings and above all on cuffs. “Knapphål” literally means “buttonhole”.

Kollett

The kollett was a type of jacket shorter than the coat, had a standing collar but no tails. The kollett was used during summers and drill exercises. The corresponding garment in English is probably coatee. A coatee was a type of short tight fitting uniform coat or jacket.

Kepi (Käppi)

The kepi is a cap with a flat circular top and a peak, or visor.

Kurtka

Lancers typically wore a double-breasted jacket (kurtka) with a colored panel (plastron) at the front, a colored sash, and a square-topped Polish cap (czapka). The kurtka was a type of close fitting double breasted jacket, cut to the waist and often worn with a plastron, a contrasting-coloured panel of cloth covering the chest worn by lancers. The Swedish kurtka was double-breasted with plastron and piping and equipped with epaulettes. -L-

Lampasses (Revärer)

Lampasse(s) or trouser stripes are in a large number of national armed forces trouser stripes. In German speaking countries as General Staff–qualified officers, their uniform featured these distinctive double-wide lampasses. Because of the similar spelling, it should not be mixed up with the Lampas (French: Lampas).) which is of different meaning.

Leggings (Charivader)

A kind of long stocking which reached far up onto the thighs onto of the trousers. Usage from the 18th century refers to men's wear, usually made of cloth or leather that is wrapped around the leg down to the ankle. Leggings refer to several types of leg coverings.

Long-coat (Långrock)

The Swedish long-coat was of type Justaucorps. The long-coat with its long tails was a bit uncomfortable to wear. The tails reached down to the knees and were a hindrance in combat. The tails were also troublesome for foot soldiers during march and for horsemen while riding. Therefor it was common to turn up the tails in front as well as at the back at each side and onto a buckle. The coat lining thereby became visible. At other occasions the tails were let down. The long-coat reached down to the knees. The long-coat was generally introduced in Sweden in the 1680s even if they also can be found in the 1670s. The long-coat tails were not turned up in the artillery as they normally were in the infantry and cavalry.

Mantel

Sleeveless coat, cloak.

Medium Blue (Mellanblå)

A shade of blue typical for the Carolean uniforms of the 1700s.

Other Ranks

The term used to refer to all ranks below officers is "other ranks" (abbreviated "ORs"). It includes warrant officers, non-commissioned officers ("NCOs") and ordinary soldiers with the rank of private or regimental equivalent. Officers may, in speaking, distinguish themselves from those "in the ranks". -P-

Peaked Cap (Skärmmössa)

A peaked cap/visor cap is a form of headgear worn by the armed forces of many nations, as well as many uniformed civilian organizations such as law enforcement agencies and fire departments. It derives its name from its short visor (American English, known as a peak in British English), which was historically made of polished leather but increasingly is made of a synthetic substitute.

Pigtail (Stångpiska)

In the context of hairstyles, the usage of the term pigtail (or twintail or twin tail) shows considerable variation. The term may refer to a single braid, but when used in the plural it often refers to twin bunches of hair on opposite sides of the head. From the later 17th century through the 19th century, the term came to be applied to any braided ("plaited", in British parlance) hairstyle. The British army also adopted a single pigtail or "queue" as its standard dress for long hair. The Swedish Army soldiers used pigtail in the 1700s with black braids.

Pikeman (Pikenerare)

A pike is a pole weapon, a very long thrusting spear formerly used extensively by infantry. Unlike many similar weapons, the pike is not intended to be thrown.

Piping (Passpoal)

In sewing, piping is a type of trim or embellishment consisting of a strip of folded fabric so as to form a "pipe" inserted into a seam to define the edges or style lines of a garment or other textile object. Usually the fabric strip is cut on the bias. It may be made from either self-fabric (the same fabric as the object to be ornamented) or contrasting fabric, or of leather.

Plastron (Bröstrevärer)

A plastron is a contrasting-colored panel of cloth covering the chest. See image to the right.

Plume (Plym)

A plume is a special type of bird feather, possessed by egrets, ostriches, birds of paradise, quetzals, pheasants and peacocks. They often have a decorative or ornamental purpose, commonly used among marching bands and the military, worn on the hat or helmet of the wearer. When used on military headdresses, the clipped feather plume is referred to as the hackle.

Pompon (Pompong)

A pom-pom – also spelled pom-pon, pompom or pompon – is a decorative ball or tuft. In military context the term refers to a small, tighter ball or tuft attached to the top of a hat. Pom-poms may come in many colors, sizes, and varieties and are made from a wide array of materials, including wool, cotton, thread and occasionally feathers. In reference to military uniforms, the small pom-pom on the crown of military hats is called a "toorie" in Scotland.

Rank Insignias (Gradbeteckningar)

Rank insignias are worn on military uniforms to denote the wearers rank.

Trouser stripes / Lampasses (Revärer)

Lampasse(s) are in a large number of national armed forces trouser stripes. Lampasses are worn even today in a large number of national armed forces on dress uniform, full dress uniform, or duty uniform of general officers. The gold-coloured lampasses of the US-Cavalry is also well known. Lampasses were fixed along the seam of the outer side of trousers.

Tunic (Vapenrock)

A military tunic is a type of medium length coat or jacket, the lower hem of which reaches down to the thighs all the way round. It is named after the tunic, a garment of similar length worn in Ancient Rome. -S-

Service Dress Uniform (Daglig dräkt)

Service dress uniform is a style of military uniform that is the equivalent of a business suit, i.e. dress clothes - not the very most formal attire yet not casual attire either, but rather pertaining to the traditional Western dress code of informal attire.

Shako (Tschakå)

A shako is a tall, cylindrical military cap, usually with a visor, and sometimes tapered at the top. It is usually adorned with some kind of ornamental plate or badge on the front, metallic or otherwise, and often has a feather, plume (see hackle), or pompom attached at the top. The shako introduced into the Swedish infantry in 1815 was the Russian shako - the kiwa; The kiwa (also kiver) was a style of shako introduced into the Imperial Russian Army in 1812; its distinguishing feature was the dished or concave top. A new shako was enacted by the Swedish Army in 1838. This shako was taller and straight upright and didn’t weight as much as the old one.

Shoes (Skor)

The early infantry footwear was shoes, usually with a decorative buckle. The shoes were made of grain- leather (smorläder) and each shoe could be worn on either foot (no differences between left and right shoe). The shoes were black and broken right off in front, i.e. square toecaps.

Shoulder belt (Koppel)

In military uniforms, a shoulder belt is a wide belt worn usually over the shoulder and across the body. A shoulder belt was worn in various configurations, depending on army and rank. For example, an officer may have only worn one shoulder belt as appropriate for only having a pistol.

Shoulder mark (Axelträns)

A shoulder mark, also called an epaulette, shoulder board, rank slide, or slip-on , is a flat cloth sleeve worn on the shoulder strap of a uniform. It may bear rank or other insignia.

Shoulder Straps (Axelklaff)

Many military uniform shirts, jackets, tunics, or greatcoats feature shoulder straps. They were originally designed to keep back packs, ammunition pouches or bayonets from slipping off the shoulder. They often display badges of rank, shoulder marks, regimental insignia or epaulets. The Carolean uniforms had shoulder straps affixed on the shoulders. Musketeers had two straps, one on each shoulder; one to keep the bandoleer to the cartridge pouch in place, the other shoulder strap was to keep the musket in place on the shoulder. The pikemen had only one shoulder strap on the right shoulder to keep the sword belt in place.

Side cap (Båtmössa)

A side cap is a foldable military cap with straight sides and a creased or hollow crown sloping to the back where it is parted. It is known as a garrison cap  or flight cap in the United States, wedge cap in Canada) or field service cap in the United Kingdom.

Standing Collar (Ståndkrage)

Standing or stand-up, fitting up around the neck and not lying on the shoulders. Collars may also be stiffened, traditionally with starch; A stiff standing collar for men's formal wear, differentiated from other tall styles by the lack of tabs at the front.

Stockings (Knästrumpor)

The stockings (knee socks) reached above the knees and usually made of knitted of wool. They were kept in place by straps and brass clasps. It was common to wear two pair of stockings on top of each other. The stockings were normally yellow but there were variations: For example the Närke-Värmlands and Jönköping regiments wore red stockings and the Västerbotten regiment wore white stockings. Mid- 1690s a special type of protective stocking was introduced to be worn on top of the ordinary stockings. These protective stockings was made of broadcloth or frieze (vadmal) for winter usage and linen for summer usage. These outer stockings were predecessor to the gaithers (spats). At the end of the 1690s a new regulation stated that the stockings was to be in the same color as respective regiment’s color of the lining.

Surtout (Syrtut)

A surtout is a long greatcoat with lapels and equipped with one or two rows of buttons worn over the military uniforms used in the 1700s and 1800s. -T-

“Tagelliggare”

A tagelliggare was a large crest or comb (lying plume) made of horsehair (haircloth) used as adornments on hats and helmets.

Tailcoat (Frack)

A tailcoat is a coat with the front of the skirt cut away, so as to leave only the rear section of the skirt, known as the tails. The historical reason coats were cut this way was to make it easier for the wearer to ride a horse, but over the years tailcoats of varying types have evolved into forms of formal dress for both day and evening wear.

Tails (Skört)

A tailcoat is a coat with the front of the skirt cut away, so as to leave only the rear section of the skirt, known as the tails. The historical reason coats were cut this way was to make it easier for the wearer to ride a horse, but over the years tailcoats of varying types have evolved into forms of formal dress for both day and evening wear.

Tolpak

A high peaked cap made of haircloth equipped with a hanging pouch of linen known as a flame and a banderole and high plume. This cap was usually worn by the hussars. It was initially introduced in Sweden mid-1700s.

Three-cornered hat, tricorne

The early Carolean hat had initially flat brims but later turned up, however not fastened. At the end of the 1600s the hat was pinned up on either side of the head and at the back, producing a triangular shape. Hats of this general style were referred to as "cocked hats". This three-cornered hat is also known as tricorne. There was a button on the left brim. The NCOs button were silver-plated while the officers button were gold-plated. The hat was typically worn with one point facing forward, though it was not at all unusual for soldiers, who would often rest a rifle or musket on their left shoulder, to wear the tricorne pointed above their left eyebrow to allow better clearance.

Trimming (Bräm)

Trim or trimming in clothing is applied ornament, such as gimp, passementerie, ribbon, ruffles, or, as a verb, to apply such ornament.

Trousers/Breeches (Byxor/knäbyxor)

Until the end of the 1700s, beginning of the 1800s trousers were so-called breeches, i.e. they reached down to the knees. The breeches were tight and made of skin, sometimes of broadcloth and normally yellow.

Träns

Braids or cords used as adornments on uniforms.

Undress Uniform/Dress Cloths

(Släpmundering)

Dress clothes (undress) are clothing that is less formal than the service dress (field uniform). In other words an informal working dress/uniform. -W/V-

Wadmal / Frieze (Vadmal)

Wadmal is a coarse, dense, usually undyed wool fabric woven in Iceland, Norway, Sweden, Greenland, and the Orkney, Faroe and Shetland Islands from the Middle Ages into the 18th century.  In remote regions, wadmal remained the primary fabric for working people's clothing into the 18th century.

Worsted (Redgarn/kamgarn)

Worsted is a high-quality type of wool yarn, the fabric made from this yarn, and a yarn weight category. The name derives from Worstead, a village in the English county of Norfolk.

Vest (Väst)

The vest (waistcoat) reached down to the knees, was made of skin and generally yellow. There were vests also made of broadcloth even if they weren’t common.